Designers Spots Spring Fashion on Runway

Hoopskirts paraded down the runways and they didn’t just come in record numbers, they arrived in record proportions. At Yohji Yamamoto, the bride’s sweeping hem even inched its way over the catwalk’s edge and into the front row. While hoops are hardly a surprise at Betsey Johnson ”My most consistent, true-blue look has been the puffy skirt shape,” the designer said they were less expected at Bottega Veneta, where Tomas Maier added rustic, romantic elements to his usual streamlined mix. More Versailles than home on the prairie were the perky bell-shaped minis at Alexander McQueen and Paul Smith.

“People are investing in key pieces now,” says Adam Lippes, who featured the print in his latest ADAM collection. “Polka dots are classic, but they’ve been given a fresh twist.” There were cheery retro circles of all sizes at Michael Kors, Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni turned the pattern into lace skirts, and Giles Deacon offered smudged spots on shift dresses. It’s time to get happy, designers seem to be saying.

While statement-making pants are big news for spring, some designers clearly feel that less is more. Peter Som’s peekaboo panties matched an otherwise conservative shirtdress, and the bottoms at Hermès were almost long enough to qualify as running shorts—almost. On other runways, models stalked out in glorified underwear and not much else.



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